POV: Bring Your Dry Winter Skin Back to Life With My Ultimate Skincare Routine (And Tips From An Board-Certified Dermatologist)

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When the seasons change, so does our skin. In the colder months (especially for those living in dry climates as I do), skin tends to get flakier and drier, with some people even experiencing eczema or psoriasis due to the harsh weather. When you combine that cold air with wind chill and dry indoor heat from your HVAC system, it’s a skin disaster waiting to happen. 

After moving from humidity-laden NYC to dry-as-a-desert Toronto, my skin was in serious crisis mode – especially after I experienced my first Canadian winter. My sensitive skin went haywire in the lower humidity levels — especially when the bone-chilling wind of Central Canada kicked in. I had never dealt with such dry skin in my life, and it took several long conversations with my facial aesthetician to figure out just why this was happening and what we could do to fix it without me getting expensive monthly facials.

More recently, I spoke with some of the most experienced players in the skincare industry to take a look at the culprits behind dry winter skin and what you can do to get glowing skin, even on these below-freezing days. 

What causes dry winter skin?

Underneath the outermost layer of our skin, known as the epidermis, is the skin barrier. Made up of dead or dying skin cells and lipids, this skin barrier is a layer of protection. When cold temps and low humidity damage it, the skin can appear dry. In the wintertime, there are fewer lipids in your skin barrier, and it’s stripped of natural oils, which is why many people need to up the ante with some additional skincare products. Although the climate outside is partially responsible for dry winter skin, so is turning the thermostat up and closing windows. 

Emily Trampetti, multi-state licensed aesthetician, skincare expert, and coach tells us, “For those of us that have to deal with colder (or frigid) temperatures throughout the winter months, it seems like dry, chapped and potentially more irritated skin is just part of the wintertime experience. This happens for several reasons, but mostly because climates become less humid (less moisture in the air). Warmer air can retain more moisture than cold air, and when it’s dry outside, moisture is more likely to evaporate from your skin.

The biggest thing – no matter what season it is, water and moisture always look to leave the skin. We call it transepidermal water loss, and it happens daily wherever you live. The best way to keep your skin hydrated is to use topical products that maintain your healthy skin barrier and prevent evaporation.”

Some signs you might be experiencing dry winter skin include:

To replenish that much-needed moisture and restore your skin’s radiance, you can take several steps at those times when temperatures dip. 

Tips to Remedy Dry Winter Skin 

World-renowned dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross tells us what ingredients to look for and which ones to avoid:

“Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, ecotin, peptides, and niacinamides are the best ingredients to reach for to promote hydration and strengthen dry, compromised skin. Fix weak moisture with ceramides – they are emollients that moisturize and strengthen the skin barrier. It is even better if paired with hyaluronic acid, which is a humectant that holds 1000x times its weight in water, meaning it helps retain H₂0 in your skin and is great for hydrating the upper layer of skin. Ecotin is another scientifically proven emollient that strengthens and softens dry skin.

“Peptides are rich in amino acids, and applying them topically not only signals repair but also more collagen production for stronger, denser skin. Lastly, niacinamide, or vitamin B3, offers multiple benefits for those with dry skin. It has antioxidant properties, reducing the damage of oxidative stress to the skin barrier and replenishing the skin, improving its ability to hold hydration. It also helps to reduce redness, which is the root cause of inflammation. 

I am not a fan of benzoyl peroxide, especially for those with dry skin and acne. Benzoyl peroxide wreaks havoc on your moisture barrier, sometimes exacerbating the issue for those with breakouts.”

Most of the issues that we have with our skin in the winter have to do with a lack of moisture. But just how do you lock in that hydration effectively?

1. Adjust your skincare routine

Your routine might look different than it does in the summer in that you’ll need a heavier moisturizer and a more gentle exfoliator or cleanser that doesn’t strip your skin of its natural oils. To avoid over-exfoliating or damaging your skin, opt for a gentle chemical exfoliant instead of one with scrubbing particles like beads. Enzyme cleansers are popular for their 2-in-1 cleansing and exfoliating properties, and I’ll share my top pick below. 

Dr. Gross recommends the following: “The first step in any routine should be a cleanser. I recommend a soap-free balm cleanser because it will remove bacteria, makeup, and impurities without disturbing the moisture barrier. Next, exfoliation can remove dead, flakey skin. Up next, reach for targeted hydrating treatments. Serums are your workhorse products that help to target specific skin concerns. Moisturizers create a shield over your skin, locking in hydration and protecting against pathogens. I recommend layering both because it allows for multiple barriers of protection. Start with a serum, then follow with a moisturizer.”

2. Invest in a humidifier

With the heat turned on and the windows closed, lots of humidity is lost, resulting in dry skin. If you have a built-in humidifier, turn it up to around 30%. If you feel you need to increase it even more, do so but keep an eye on window condensation to avoid the growth of mold. You can also buy a portable humidifier to infuse moisture in the air and consider placing it in the room where you sleep or spend most of your time. 

3. Use gentle cleansers and moisturize before bed

Moisturizing multiple times a day may be necessary for the winter when your skin needs to suck up as much water as possible. Moisturizing before bed or applying an overnight moisturizing mask can be particularly helpful. However, don’t just slather it on before bed – be sure to use a gentle cleanser first so that you’re putting cream on a clean surface rather than potentially clogging pores and spreading bacteria.

4. Even though it’s cold, use sunscreen daily

Many people think that sun can only damage your skin in the summer, but the winter is when it really does a doozy on us.  UV light can stress out your skin’s moisture barrier, which is important for keeping skin healthy and hydrated. Try to use at least SPF 30 on your skin. Elta MD is a popular choice that can double as a lightweight moisturizer in the summer. Dr. Gross comments, “Never forget sun protection. The harmful UVA and UVB rays from the sun poke holes in our skin and break down our collagen structure over time. In the process, it reduces the ability to retain and hold moisture. Preventing this damage in the first place with daily SPF protection can improve dry skin conditions in the short and long term.”

5. Hydrate inside and out

Even if you’ve been applying the fanciest skincare products to protect against cold winter air, if you’re not drinking enough fluids, your complexion will look dull and be prone to drying out more quickly. Drink as much water as possible throughout the day, and add in herbal tea to remedy the sinus problems that often come with a dry climate. Using a personal facial steamer can also help with hydration.